The Greening of the Yucatan

Cancun has never been high on my list of travel destinations.  The setting for countless Girls Gone Wild videos, the city always seemed to me like a seaside Vegas – tawdry, artificial, dependent for its survival on a steady stream of spring breakers and package holiday buyers wooed by the promise of white sand and an endless supply of $2 margaritas.  But I was surprised to discover that just south of Cancun, along the less developed Riviera Maya, the region’s natural and cultural beauty endures.  I wrote about crumbling pyramids, Mayan rites and oceanfront nature reserves for the Canadian magazine alive.

The Greening of the Yucatan

Remy Scalza; Special to alive

They’re knee-high, bad-tempered, and given to mischief. Aluxes—think leprechauns with a tan—are the jungle spirits of Maya lore. And, for better or worse, I’m poised at their front door, peering into the inky black of a Mexican cave with a local eco-guide and 12 other travellers.

A Maya shaman, dressed in white and carrying a smoking chalice filled with sacred incense, offers up a blessing for the group. We’re about to descend into a cenote, one of the underground caverns that riddle the soft limestone bedrock here in Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.

Purified, protected from the aluxes—we hope—we file down into the dark, heading for a crystalline pool that beckons from the depths of the cave.

Click here for the full article on alive.

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