Whistler, host of the 2010 Winter Olympics, is Canada’s uncontested capital of alpine chic. The ski village, year-round population 10,000, has six five-star hotels, a thriving SUV limo service and bars full of ski bums sipping $16 martinis. But venture a bit outside of town and the wilderness closes back in. On the drive north from Whistler, million-dollar chalets quickly give way to much humbler accommodations scattered on Indian reserves. Then – suddenly – there’s nothing at all, just a thin shoelace of asphalt rising steadily into the mountains.